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| home > motorcycles > mz | |||||||||||||
MZ Maintenance
Any play in the right hand main bearing is exaggerated by the time it gets to the contact breaker. If the cam can be moved slightly but the bearing is still good, static points checking will not give an accurate result and 'pinking' will occur. It's not yet time for new bearings just back off the timing very slightly and road test until the pinking is eliminated. Dynamic timing checking with a strobe will give the same results.
If the bike is prone to furring up plugs get your wallet out and buy a NGK B7HV plug instead of the standard B7HS They are more that twice the price and will probably need to be ordered but are well worth their money in terms of life and reliability.
I don't know why the book specifies 'green' seals, it's definitely not environmental. Most of the seals are standard sizes and can be bought from bearing stockists such as BSL in either standard Nitrile (black) or high temperature Viton (brown). I don't think you need Viton seals as they are twice the price and the material is extremely dangerous if burnt. Given that minimum order charges apply you can also buy all the O rings and a length of 5mm O ring cord for the tool box lid. (stick it to length with super glue).
The locks available from dealers now have a black surround and an offset key hole. Go to a caravan dealer for a better looking replica (they are a similar price - expensive).
If the battery is flat in the morning but you didn't leave it switched on, charge the battery again and check for a small discharge in the key off position. If so remove the ignition switch and clean the bottom connector area with some solvent - can I say petrol... Years of grim build up causes a track to be made across the spade connectors. I've seen this problem several times but it's never been inside the switch.
The original 3 pin headlight connector (2) has 'U' shaped brass connectors. These are not robust for vibration and the whole connector comes off the bulb regularly, not nice on a dark night. An alternative to tying or taping it back in place is to fit a standard car connector block which uses typical spade connectors.
Don't forget to connect the side light return wire!
Occasionally the deep drawn brass can crack allowing the fibre base and bulb to come out of the holder.
Clean the brass and solder a copper washer on the bottom, make sure it's inside diameter doesn't touch the contact.
The original condenser supplied with the bike is almost certainly no good. I've checked many old ones and they've all leaked.
Original Condenser
The quickest solution unless you happen to live right next door
to your dealer is to buy a car accessory part. The condenser fitted to old Ford
Escorts or Mini's fits easily and is readily available. The Lucas part number
you need is DCB101 Most catalogues will cross reference this to their own brand.
You can see the installation on my photo's page. I apologize in advanced for
the silicon bath sealer all over the orange wire, at least I managed to keep
the water out!
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